Provo City

Buying & Planting Trees

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Photo by A. Hollingsworth, 10-29-08

  

Autumn is tree planting time! 
The first rule of planting a tree is to plan before you plant. If you haven't yet looked through our Tree Selection page, now is the perfect time. Selecting the right tree for your yard is the first step to not only a healthy, beautiful landscape but also energy savings. Learn more! Check out our Tree Selection Guide & Tour.   

Buying Trees

What to Look For
  • Many strong, healthy roots to support good growth.
  • A trunk that is wound free. No nicks, no cuts.
  • Strong form
  • Well attached and nicely spaced branches.
  • A trunk firmly anchored in the rootball
  • Obvious trunk flare. A trunk flare is the area at the very bottom of the trunk of the tree that spreads out to connect with the roots. Just below the trunk flare is how deeply a tree should be planted.
  • A rootball that is 10-12 inches wide for ever inch of trunk diameter (a tree with a trunk diameter of 2 inches would require a 20-24 inch rootball).
  • Visible trunk taper
  • Good twig extension growth
  • Evenly distributed foliage throughout the upper two thirds of the tree.
  • Spreading branches and a single trunk (multi-stem ornamentals are an exception).
  • No insects. No disease.
  • A moist rootball.
 

What to Avoid
  • Crushed or circling roots. If there are only minimal crushed roots or minimal circling roots these can be corrected. With a very sharp tool, make clean cuts to remove the crushed end of the roots. This should only be done immediately before planting. If there are only a few circling roots these can be cut. Use a very sharp tool and make clean cuts.
  • A rootball that is too small for the size of tree.
  • Wounds on the trunk from mechanical damage or bad pruning
  • Weak form, such as multiple stems that squeeze against each other or branches that squeeze against each other and look crowded.
  • Trunks loose in the root ball. There is no root system—a serious problem.
  • Trees with trunks that contain cracks below branch unions.
  • Dried out rootballs.
  • Trees with brown or black roots.
  • Foliage concentrated at the top of the tree.
Always look beneath the wrap.
If there is a trunk wrap on the tree, always examine the trunk underneath. Look for wounds caused by either bad pruning or mechanical damage. Trunk wraps should be removed after a tree is planted.
 
What size should I buy?
If circumstances permit, buy the smaller caliper tree. They are easier and safer to transplant. A smaller caliper tree will be able to develop a root system faster than a larger caliper trees. As a result, smaller caliper trees will grow faster. Five years after planting, you wouldn’t know the difference between a large caliper tree and a small caliper tree. The smaller caliper tree may even exceed the growth and size of the larger tree in this time. There are of course circumstances that would prevent the purchase of a smaller caliper tree. Smaller trees are easier to damage and destroy and are, therefore, not ideal for public areas.  
 
A Great Deal?
Avoid buying unhealthy trees, even if they are steeply discounted. They attract pests and require more maintenance. Save yourself the trouble; buy a healthy tree from the start.
 

How to Plant a Tree

1. Plan Before You Plant
Planting locations should be checked for underground utilities prior to any digging. Contact Blue Stakes (1-800-662-4111) to locate underground utilities.
 
2. Dig Planting Holes
Dig a planting hole at least twice the width of the root ball. Avoid digging too deep. The depth of the hole should be no deeper than the depth of the root ball. An important rule of thumb is that it is better to plant a tree a little too high than a little too low.
 
3. Remove Binding Material
After placing the tree in the hole, remove the wire and burlap if stability of the root ball allows. If not, remove only the top one or two rows of wire and an equal amount of burlap. No twine or burlap should remain on or near the surface of the root ball or around the trunk. Cut vertical slits in the burlap that remains. Do not fold burlap into the hole. Also remove any twine or tags from the canopy of the tree.
 
4. Back-fill and Water In
Use the soil removed from the hole to backfill. Minimize air pockets by removing soil clumps, rocks, sod, and folded burlap. Water thoroughly and allow water to soak deeply into the site.
  
Used with permission from the Arbor Day Foundation. Visit arborday.org for more information.
5. Mulch
Place two to four inches of mulch over the planting site. Avoid direct contact between mulch and the trunk of the tree. This will prevent root rot, diseases, and insect problems. No flowers or other vegetation should be planted around newly planted trees. Mulch should be re-applied as necessary to maintain a 3-inch thick layer.
           
6. Check for Moisture
Check the moisture content of the backfill and root ball weekly to determine how much and how often to water. Soil type, drainage, exposure, weather, tree species and size, ground cover, adjoining shelter, and season are a few of the factors that will influence the frequency and amount of water needed.
  

Common Tree Planting Problems
  • The tree is planted too close to a structure.
  • The tree species does not have the physical traits desired.
  • The tree conflicts with power lines.
  • The tree will not grow because it is not adapted to the soil, light or water conditions present at the planting site.
  • The tree produces flowers, fruit, or seeds that are undesirable for the location or the homeowner.
  • The tree loses many branches in minor windstorms.
 

For more information
Contact Us.